"Many secondhand luxury shoppers say [Zekrayat] Husein, a 43-year-old Palestinian mother of three and a former aesthetician who goes by the nickname Zeko, is the Coco Chanel of authentication. She has evaluated over 25,000 Chanel bags since she started her business in 2019, she said. She authenticates hundreds of bags a week.""Chanel bags sold in Japan from 1985 through 2016 have the bag’s date of purchase and boutique initials inside; that Chanel’s MSHLG (metal shiny light gold) hardware is closer to champagne than bronze, while its MPY (or metal pale yellow) has a darker tone of yellow; that Chanel classic medium flap bags in colors other than black are exclusively made in France and never in Italy; that 10218184 is the serial number counterfeiters use the most.""Most of her clients, who are buying used Chanel bags from boutiques or online resellers, will email Husein photos of their purchase, taking close-ups of stitching, hardware, and interiors. Husein charges $50 for her authenticity certificate based on photos and also does in-person inspections for $100."There "is a cottage industry of independent authenticators who can easily tell a counterfeit from the real McCoy. But their jobs have gotten harder as the quality of fakes has reached new heights, so even high-end consignees may end up unwittingly selling knockoffs. Return fraud, where customers buy real luxury goods, then get refunds by returning fake ones, also plagues the primary market.""Husein sometimes works as an intermediary between a buyer and seller, verifying the authenticity of a bag before a purchase. She said she’s gone head-to-head with banks, insurance companies and resale marketplaces to help customers who were sold counterfeits get their money back.""Of the average 50 bags she reviews a day, around 10 are counterfeits""“They [master fakes] use the exact same leather as Chanel,” she said of the brand’s high-quality lambskin materials.""Others who have turned their love of luxury into a marketable skill include Paola Tapia, 35, an Atlanta-based authenticator who checks Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Gucci goods for boutiques in the area and for shoppers online. Michelle Peeters, a 38-year-old reseller and authenticator in Brooklyn, N.Y., said she examines around 30 Chanel bags a week.There are tools of the trade for verifying the authenticity of a handbag. Tapia authenticates with Entrupy, a piece of software that compares photos taken with a micro-lens gadget to those in a database. Laura Chavez-Sainz, senior authentication manager of Fashionphile, a luxury-resale site, said she likes to use a jeweler’s loupe, flashlight and dental tools.""'Like Husein, [Michelle ] Peeters also entered the authentication world as a reseller in 2009. Touching and seeing bags helped her become well versed in Chanel’s language. She co-moderates a Chanel Facebook group with over 130,000 members and began authenticating Chanel bags in 2020. She charges $35 for certificates.""Chanel is cracking down on the secondary market, alleging that vintage dealers are engaging in counterfeit sales. In February, Chanel won a lawsuit against the website and New York boutique What Goes Around Comes Around; a jury ruled Chanel was owed $4 million in damages related to counterfeiting.""Megs Mahoney Dusil, co-founder of the handbag site PurseBlog, said she’s noticed more Chanel fans gravitating to smaller, independent resellers, making services from Husein or Peeters more in demand. Shoppers feverishly swap stories on blogs and social media about counterfeits sold on big sites."
"Authenticators are also on the lookout for return fraud. There are some telltale signs, like sellers listing multiples of the same bag or items with tags. When Fashionphile noticed that a seller was doing this with Gucci bags, it flagged the seller internally and rejected her sales, said Chavez-Sainz. Fashionphile also contacted the store whose receipts the seller had shared as proof of authenticity. The store said it was building a case against the seller because she was bait-and-switching the bags."
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Excerpts from "Rent a White Guy"
"NOT LONG AGO I was offered work as a quality-control expert with an American company in China I’d never heard of. No experience necessary—which was good, because I had none. I’d be paid $1,000 for a week, put up in a fancy hotel, and wined and dined in Dongying, an industrial city in Shandong province I’d also never heard of. The only requirements were a fair complexion and a suit.
“I call these things ‘White Guy in a Tie’ events,” a Canadian friend of a friend named Jake told me during the recruitment pitch he gave me in Beijing, where I live. “Basically, you put on a suit, shake some hands, and make some money. We’ll be in ‘quality control,’ but nobody’s gonna be doing any quality control. You in?”
I was.
And so I became a fake businessman in China, an often lucrative gig for underworked expatriates here. One friend, an American who works in film, was paid to represent a Canadian company and give a speech espousing a low-carbon future. Another was flown to Shanghai to act as a seasonal-gifts buyer. Recruiting fake businessmen is one way to create the image—particularly, the image of connection—that Chinese companies crave. My Chinese-language tutor, at first aghast about how much we were getting paid, put it this way: “Having foreigners in nice suits gives the company face.”
Six of us met at the Beijing airport, where Jake briefed us on the details. We were supposedly representing a California-based company that was building a facility in Dongying. Our responsibilities would include making daily trips to the construction site, attending a ribbon-cutting ceremony, and hobnobbing. During the ceremony, one of us would have to give a speech as the company’s director. That duty fell to my friend Ernie, who, in his late 30s, was the oldest of our group. His business cards had already been made."
"For the next few days, we sat in the office swatting flies and reading magazines, purportedly high-level employees of a U.S. company that, I later discovered, didn’t really exist."
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